Day 0 - Arrival in Reykjavik for the Laugavegur Trek

DAY 0 - Aug 25th, 2023 

Ever since we visited Iceland in 2019 and went to Landmannalaugar, I have been wanting to do the famous 4-day Laugavegur trek. This trek is ranked by National Geographic as one of the top ten in the world for  the stunning beauty and variety of landscapes. 

Laugavegur trek is the longest trek in Iceland and also the most popular. It showcases a barren and inhospitable landscape; there is no wildlife to see. But it makes up for in dramatic beauty with petrified lava fields, bubbling vents, geothermal rivers, volcanic rocks, snow covered peaks, glaciers and moss covered mountains in a black desert-like landscape. 

I had doubts about my ability to complete the trek. This is in the highlands of Iceland and once you start, there is no turning back, since the area is remote and there are no hospitals, restaurants or anything that is remotely town-like!


The location of the trek on the map of Iceland. The large bodies of white are the glaciers.


Zoomed in view - the trek starts at Landmannalaugar (north) and ends in Thorsmork (south).


The elevation map of the trek. Originally, this trek used to be done in 4 days, each day covering a distance of 12-15 km. But these days, they are doing this trek in 3 days. The distance covered in the first day is 15 miles/24 km and then 9.5 miles/15 km for the next 2 days. The long first day makes it a bit hard, especially if one has weak knees or other health conditions.

  • Trek Day 1- Drive to Landmannalaugar and hike up Blahnukur
  • Trek Day 2 - Landmannalaugar to Alftavatn - 15 miles/24 km
  • Trek Day 3 - Alftavatn to Emstrur - 9 miles/15 km
  • Trek Day 4 - Emstrur to Thorsmork - 9 miles/15 km

I booked the trek through Arctic Adventures. One can book a "hut" or a "tent" experience. Huts are basic accommodation buildings with a series of beds and bunk beds, dorm style. The toilet is outside the hut. I booked a hut experience. Neel said he wanted to join, but by then all the hut options were taken and we booked a tent option for him. I was a little worried now , since this was near the end of Icelandic summers and thought he may be cold in the tent, but he wasn't too bothered by it. Icelandic weather is very unpredictable and one can get gale winds and heavy rain at a moment's notice!


Ready to go ! At the Newark airport after luggage check-in.

I landed in Reykjavik early morning (6 am) on Aug 25th, 2023 after an uneventful 5 hour flight. I hung around in the airport till about 11 am, barely managing to stay awake and then took a bus into the city. From there, I checked into my accommodation for the day and went to get some lunch - had a yummy acai bowl. The restaurants had a book library and I found a book by an Indian author. Ended up buying the book for 10 dollars (not worth more than a couple dollars)!

Neel landed around 3 pm and took the bus in and met me at the apartment. That evening we walked around and then had a vegan dinner.





We went to bed early, since we were jet-lagged and also had to be at the meeting point for the group tour at 7 am sharp on the morning of the 26th (Day1).


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Day 2 - Hiking from Landmannalaugar to Lake Alftavatn - 15 miles (24 km)

Day 5 - Last day in Reykjavik and Departure

Day 4 - Hiking from Emstrur to Thorsmork - 15 km (9.5 miles)